It is important to mouse proof your home. As the weather gets colder, mice are trying to find places to stay warm.

You don’t have to live next to a farm, field or forest to have a large mouse population in your neighborhood. It is important to mouse proof your home the best you can to keep these varmints out.

Mice are the ultimate survivors, and they thrive anywhere they find warmth, shelter, water and food. They may not bother us during spring and summer, but as the chill of autumn weather appears they look for better alternatives. Unfortunately, that often means our homes and cabins. There are a variety of steps you can take to diminish and resist this invasion.

Mice are prolific breeders. One female can produce up to eight litters a year, with six to 10 mice per litter. That means a single mouse can produce 80 other mice who will also breed and reproduce. The affect can be exponential, and that’s why this is often an ongoing battle against the furry little rodents.

Mouse Proof Your Home By Sealing Off Access to Your Home or Garage

This is not as easy as it sounds. A mouse can squeeze through the smallest spaces and gaps between your foundation and framing.

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But you have to start somewhere and here’s where to look:

• Start in the basement and inspect any gaps in your foundation. If you shut off the lights in the basement, you may see daylight peeking through gaps or cracks. You can seal these with a patching cement, caulk, spackle or even steel wool. Mice are notorious for chewing through wood and just about anything else, so a patching cement might be your best bet if it’s an unfinished area and cosmetic appearance is not as important.
• Check for any holes or gaps in your garage, whether it’s attached or freestanding. Garage doors are often left open for various periods of time, and that’s an invitation for mice to hide under and around things in the garage while they search for an entrance to your home.
• Eaves and soffits aren’t out of reach for mice. Mice are good climbers and a tree or vine gives them a pathway to any gap or hole in an eave or soffit. Caulk works, or repair with new wood and re-caulk.

Mouse Proof Your Home By Eliminating Accidental Food Sources

• Look for food left in or around spaces frequently occupied where food is consumed.
  • Did the kids leave some potato chips on the floor in front of the video game?
  • Did some organic garbage fall on the floor in the garage by the garbage cans?
  • If you have pet food, make sure none of it got scattered around by your pet, and seal the food in a sturdy plastic container with a tight-fitting lid.
  • Any food storage space can become a destination for mice, and mouse droppings in stored food are especially dangerous. Make sure any food storage is well-protected either in metal cans or sturdy plastic pails or containers.
  • Grass seed and wild bird seed in the garage are also mouse magnets. Make sure they’re in sealed containers and on a high shelf.

• Check for incidental water sources.
  • I’ve often found a dead mouse floating in the sump-pump well. Try to seal the top to restrict access.
  • Wet spots in the basement also create water sources. Seal cracks or areas where seepage pools water. You should probably do this regardless of the mice, but if you’re unaware of the problem, this inspection step can help you remedy it.

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Trapping and Eradicating Mice

Keep your home mouse proof this winter.

There are a variety of options for mouse eradication, and you should consider them carefully, especially if you have pets or children in the house. Some of the approaches are traditional and time-tested, and some fall in the category of new technology.

General Trapping Advice

• Mice are nocturnal animals, which means they come out at night. As a result, they will be most active not only at night, but in a dark room. Shut off the lights and check your traps in the morning.
• Mice hug the walls when they travel. They are skittish and nervous animals and like the reassurance of a wall next to them as they move around. They will foray into a dark and open space for food and water, but your best location for any trap is along walls and in corners or under furniture next to a wall or corner.
• Yes, you can reuse any trap, and there is some evidence that the scent of a dead mouse actually attracts other mice to a previously used trap. That’s up to you. Wear rubber gloves if you take this approach.
• Traditional bait for mouse traps is cheese or peanut butter. I prefer sharp, cheddar cheese pressed around the trigger so the mouse has to exert some pressure to get the cheese. I’ve had many occasions when the peanut butter on a spring trap was successfully licked off the trap without springing it.

1. The traditional spring trap.

We’re all familiar with this mouse trap. It’s a small, rectangular piece of wood with a snapping bar sprung by a spring when a piece of cheese or peanut butter is consumed from the trigger.

• Pros: A quick kill that is inexpensive and allows you to discard both the mouse and the trap. It’s also highly effective.
• Cons: Potentially dangerous to both kids and animals who may innocently trip the trap.

2. Glue traps.

Glue traps are a cardboard box shape that have a strong contact glue on the bottom of the trap. Sometimes you add food to the back of the trap and some are already scented with an attractive scent for mice.

• Pros: These traps are also inexpensive and are specifically designed to be disposable. They’re also pet and toddler safe.
• Cons: Probably the least humane mouse trap. I’ve hunted and fished for years and I’ve always hunted and fished to eat. But I’ll confess that when I used these traps, it broke my heart to see a small mouse squeaking and looking at me with a paw reaching out trying to free itself from the glue. I actually tried to get it loose so I could release it in the forest, but the glue was too strong. I dispatched it quickly and got rid of the glue traps. They work, but I don’t use them anymore.

3. Live-catch traps.

There are many variations on this type of trap. The concept is that they can get in, but they can’t get out. They’ll catch anywhere from one to six mice at a time, depending on the size and type.

• Pros: It’s a humane option requiring you to find a distant location to release the mice. You also can capture mice in bulk if you get one of the larger traps. Most are baited with some type of food or food combination and are usually made of metal so they can be washed and reused. Also, they are pet and toddler safe.
• Cons: They cost more but because they’re reusable, that’s not a big issue. They also tend to be somewhat large and visible, so they’re OK in a basement, but on the kitchen floor they stand out a bit more than you might like. Also, when you release the mice, make sure it’s a good distance from your home. The backyard is just going to invite them to try and get back in, and your neighbor may not appreciate it if you dump them in their backyard.

Image source: Pixabay.com

4. Mouse poison.

Mouse poison is a box of small, edible pellets that are usually made with corn and permeated with a potent poison. The mice eat the poison and will often run to an open space to die, although sometimes they will die in a hidden space and the only way to find them is the smell of a dead and rotting animal.

• Pros: This type of eradication is often used in barns, sheds and other locations that are hard to access or check on a regular basis. It’s also used for large infestations when single traps just can’t do the job.
• Cons: Be very careful with this one. Some stores won’t even sell it for liability reasons. Regardless of how well you hide it, a pet or toddler can die from ingesting it. In the old vernacular it was called “rat poison.” When our dog was a puppy he ate a box, and fortunately my wife caught him doing it. We rushed him to the vet and he put some eye drops in his eyes that caused him to immediately vomit. Sure enough, the tray was filled with the little, green pellets. He survived but it cost us $200 to learn the hard lesson about mouse poison.

5. Ultrasonic sound.

There are products on the market that broadcast a high frequency sound that is supposed to repel mice. I’ve never tried them and they might work, but I worry that they might also affect a pet dog or cat. There are enough versions of this type of product on the market to make me think it works, but I have found mixed reviews on Amazon.com

• Pros: They’re safe for children and if placed properly may actually repel rodents with little effort.
• Cons: Many of these products imply they will repel rodents in a broad range, from mice to rats, squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, raccoons and possums. That’s what concerns me about cats and dogs.

6. Chemical repellents used to mouse proof your home.

These are repellents that you spray in areas where mice enter or reside. They usually come in a plastic bottle with an adjustable spray, from mist to a direct stream.

• Pros: They’re easy to apply across a broad area or areas.
• Cons: Some people don’t like spraying chemicals around their homes, although there are natural versions on the market. Also, the scent eventually fades. so you have to reapply from time to time.

Keep at it!

After you have tried one or more of the above methods, be vigilant to see if the mice have returned. Droppings are a clear sign they have, as is chewed paper or cardboard shreds.  If you think they’re back, don’t hesitate! Once they start reproducing you’ll be back to the battle again until spring.

What advice would you add? Share it in the section below:

The post How To Mouse Proof Your Home For Winter appeared first on Longer Life Plan.

Knowing what you’ll need when preparing for a hurricane is a life or death matter for many.

The devastating power of nature is truly amazing. Our thoughts are with the east and west coast as they prepare for and deal with the devastation of hurricanes.  It’s difficult to think that a single hurricane can cause billions of dollars of damage, undoing in mere days what has taken mankind years to build. The cleanup efforts for the damage that hurricanes cause will take an estimated three years or more.

Should You Bug Out?

The first question you must ask yourself when preparing for a hurricane is whether or not you should bug out. This depends a lot on where you live, the terrain around you, and the strength of the coming hurricane. There are many people on the east coast who won’t be affected by the hurricane, simply because their homes are just a few feet higher than the water.

If you don’t know how high you are above sea level, and how that compares to the area around you, then you need to get your hands on a topographical map. You can download these for free from the USGS website.

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If your home is located in what is known as a “100-year-flood zone,” chances are pretty good that you’ll be flooded out in any major hurricane. This term means that there is a one percent chance that your home will flood in any one year. Other zones are listed as “500-year flood zones” or “1,000-year flood zones.” Anyone who buys their home with a mortgage loan and who lives in a 100-year flood zone will be required to buy flood insurance as part of their contract. Few of the rest of us bother with that.

Just in Case

No matter what you do while preparing for a hurricane, there is nothing that prepares you for the devastation that follows.

Even if you are certain that you are living high and dry, where the flooding from the hurricane can’t get to you, you should be prepared to bug out. Hurricanes and tropical storms are unpredictable. Things might end up very different than you expect. Always make sure you leave yourself an avenue of escape.

To be specific, I mean that you should leave yourself an avenue of escape if there are five feet of water in your home. You don’t want to depend on being able to drive your car, unless you happen to have a monster truck parked in the driveway. Nor should you really count on walking. You won’t be able to see what’s under the water, so you might just step into a hole that’s 20-feet deep.

If you don’t happen to own a boat, you should probably invest in an inflatable rubber raft. You can buy these for as little as $100, giving yourself a means of getting to safety, instead of having to wait for someone to rescue you.

Don’t forget your bug-out bags. This is what they are for. If you don’t have one, it’s an ideal time to make one. Wherever you go when you bug out, you’ll need tools, equipment and supplies to help you survive.

What Do You Need to See You Through?

Even if you survive the hurricane in your home, you have to consider that you won’t have any electric power, water, sewage service and that your home may very well have several feet of water in it.

Often, preparing for a hurricane is really preparing to survive its aftermath. That means stockpiling the things you’ll need to have, until power is restored. Specifically, you’ll want:

1. Bottled water
2. Non-perishable food (canned food is great)
3. Fuel (gasoline)
4. A means of cooking your food
5. Flashlights and batteries
6. Battery operated radio
7. Recharging battery for your phone
8. Solar phone charger
9. Good first-aid kit
10. Toiletries, especially toilet paper
11. Insect repellant
12. Baby formula and diapers (if you have a baby)
13. A complete set of important documents (identification, birth certificates, insurance, marriage license, property deeds, vehicle titles) in a waterproof container
14. Laminated list of emergency phone numbers
15. Cleaning supplies (for salvaging your home)
16. Rain gear (ponchos and boots)
17. Water purifier

Hurricane devastation

All of this needs to be packed in waterproof containers, such as five-gallon buckets. Most storage bins aren’t waterproof, as the lids aren’t sealed. However, they will usually float, as long as things don’t get to the point where they are underwater.

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Keep in mind that this list is just the most basic of supplies. If you are already a prepper, you probably already have much more than this. That’s good, because you’ll need it. Just make sure that if you have your prepping supplies stored in the basement, you move them to a higher point in your home when preparing for a hurricane.

Saving Your Home

Trying to save your home from a hurricane is difficult, at best. This boils down to two basic parts: keeping your home from being damaged by the wind and keeping the water out of your home.

There is little you can do to prevent your home from being damaged by high winds. Hopefully your home was already built with that in mind. Homes along the coast should be built with hurricane clips holding the rafters to the walls and other safeguards to protect them. But if you own an older home, it may not have some of these safeguards built in.

Other than direct damage to your home, the biggest risk that high wind creates for your home is breaking tree branches. If you have any tree branches that overhang your home’s roof, you should cut them off. You also should look around your home for loose objects that could become projectiles and store them away.

Flooding

But, as I already said, flooding is the bigger risk. Keeping water out of your home requires building a dam to stop the water. The most common way of doing this is with sandbags. These work well, because the sand moves, allowing the bags to seal well against one another. A properly built sandbag wall should be at least a few feet away from your home’s walls, so that you can walk around your home to check for leaks. You also will need a pump or two, to send any water that leaks through back over your sandbag wall.

But it takes a lot of sand and a lot of sandbags to make a wall around your home. Typically, a 10-foot-long section of four-foot-high sandbag wall requires about 160 sandbags, plus the sand to fill them. You will need a pretty good crew, working together, to fill all those bags and build the wall.

The power of nature is so frightening because there is nothing you can do to stop it.

Another option is to buy water dams. There are a few different brands of these on the market. Basically, they consist of a flexible plastic tube, three or four feet across. Filled with water, they actually work better at creating a barrier than sandbags do, with less of a chance of spaces where water can leak through. They are also easier to set up, as you only need to lay them out and connect a hose. But you’ll need a lot of time for your hose to fill that many tubes.

During the Storm

If you find yourself trapped at home with the waters rising, don’t panic. Your home may have a second story, move up there. If not, you can move onto the roof. But whatever you do, don’t go into the attic to escape flood waters. An attic can become a death trap in these situations.

There actually was a home in the Houston area, during Harvey, where the homeowners pitched a couple of tents on their roof and sat the storm out in them. While not a normal method of protecting yourself from a hurricane, that was quite effective.

Chances are, someone will come by with a boat to rescue you if you end up on your home’s roof. But you’re better off being able to rescue yourself. That’s why I recommended buying a rubber raft. While that may not be as nice as having a speedboat to make your getaway in, it will still be effective.

What would you add to our list of hurricane preps? Share your tips in the section below:

The post Preparing For A Hurricane: 17 Vital Items You’ll Definitely Need appeared first on Longer Life Plan.

Fresh Pumpkin

Nothing quite says “fall is here!” like seeing the season’s first big bins full of fresh pumpkins at the local store. They’re synonymous with autumn’s holidays — jack-o-lanterns for Halloween and pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving.

Unfortunately, while the pumpkin may be popular in fall, it tends to end up being used for the same decorations and meals over and over. Nothing can beat carving pumpkins with the family or indulging in a freshly baked pumpkin pie, but there is a whole lot more you can do.

Here are 10 unique ways you can use the fresh pumpkin in your home this season.

1. Roast your pumpkin seeds

If you are a fan of sunflower seeds and nuts, you are missing out by tossing your pumpkin seeds in the compost. All you need to do is clean off the seeds, toss them in a bag or bowl with some melted butter, place them on a baking sheet, sprinkle with some of your favorite seasoning and bake for 45 minutes at 300 degrees Fahrenheit. They are done when golden brown in color.

2. Make your own fresh pumpkin puree

Canned pumpkin puree can sometimes be loaded with sugars, preservatives and other ingredients you may not want to be consuming. Fresh pumpkin puree is easy to make and will blow store-bought puree out of the water in terms of taste.

I highly recommend a recipe by The Pioneer Woman (click here). She freezes her pumpkin puree for storage but some people choose to can it for preservation. HOWEVER, canning pumpkin products is not recommended by the NCHFP. I know some people who can and use their pumpkin without issue, but please do your own research on the topic.

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3. Indulge in pumpkin pancakes

Create a seasonally appropriate breakfast spread by cooking some fresh pumpkin pancakes. This recipe is similar to most pancake recipes so it will be easy to make. Add some pumpkin butter and/or homemade whipped cream to top it off.

4. Create a pumpkin chowder

Pumpkin soup is delicious and easy, but why not beef it up by making a chowder instead? I love chowders because they are so much heartier and filling than a thin soup. These recipes will surely fill your belly and warm you up on those chilly fall evenings.

Don’t forget that you can make extra when you make these chowders so you can freeze them in portion sizes for future meals.

5. Treat your livestock and pets

If you are an animal lover, don’t exclude your furry friends from indulging in nutritious and delicious pumpkin. You can chop up whole fresh pumpkin to give to livestock or give the fleshy guts to them instead of tossing it. Just don’t give them too much as it is rich and could cause an upset stomach.

Fido can also enjoy leftover pumpkin. If your pooch doesn’t have a peanut allergy, this easy three-ingredient recipe is quick to make. Simply mix a half cup of peanut butter, 1 cup of pumpkin puree and 1 ¾ cups of whole wheat or brown rice flour. Roll it out, cut out your shapes and bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 8 to 10 minutes.

6. Use a pumpkin as a serving dish

Fresh Pumpkin

Bread bowls for soup are a wonderful idea, but did you know you can use pumpkin as a serving dish as well? You will need a nice, round pumpkin (small to medium in size) that will of course sit up on its own. Cut the top off like a jack-o-lantern and scoop out the insides. Place the pumpkin and the “lid” flesh side up on a baking sheet and bake at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for roughly 30-45 minutes. Once done, simply fill it with your soup, Thanksgiving stuffing or any other warm, savory meal.

7. Make fresh pumpkin butter

Almond butter and apple butter can step aside this fall. Make some pumpkin butter instead. This recipe is super easy and tasty. I would substitute the canned puree for the homemade one mentioned earlier as well as reduce the sugar and use brown sugar instead. This butter would be great on toast, pancakes or cake. It would also be a great homemade gift for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

8. Make pumpkin seed brittle

Another sweet pumpkin treat perfect for a Halloween or Thanksgiving party is pumpkin seed brittle. Making brittle isn’t exactly easy like baking a batch of cookies, but if you have some experiencing with caramelizing sugar, it should be a breeze. This Pumpkin Seed Brittle recipe will turn out perfectly sweet and salty.

9. Make pumpkin body products

Fresh pumpkin isn’t just good for the inside of your body but also does wonders on the outside. Ladies, you can use pumpkin as a body care product in the form of face masks, lotions, exfoliants, etc.

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These recipes are a nice indulgence, but don’t forget about Christmas! Package them in airtight containers, add some decorations along with a tag with directions on use and you have wonderful handmade gifts or stocking stuffers for the women in your life.

10. Use carving-free pumpkin decorating ideas

Last but not least, you can keep your Halloween decorations around for longer or even use them in some recipes after a few weeks of being out but not carving them. Check out some unique pumpkin designs for Halloween and Thanksgiving that don’t require carving.

What are your favorite ways to use fresh pumpkins? Please share your recipes, decorating ideas and any other tips in the comment section below!

The post Unique Off-Grid Ways You Can Use A Fresh Pumpkin This Fall appeared first on Longer Life Plan.

heat your home

It’s wintertime and the power goes out. If you’re like most of us, you’re not all that worried – you trust that the power will come back on soon. But when 12 hours goes by and you still don’t have any electricity, you start getting concerned. It might be days before the power comes back on.

For many of us, the quick solution is to turn to wood. Heating with wood is historically the most common means of keeping your home warm. Throughout the centuries, people used wood to warm everything from tents to palaces. It has withstood the test of time quite effectively, providing warmth for millions of people. That makes it a survivalist’s number one choice for a back up way to heat your home.

But it takes a lot of wood to keep your home warm. In a long-term crisis situation, you might run out of wood before the power comes back on. Or, perhaps your wood-burning stove is unusable. Whatever the case, you’re going to need another alternate way to heat your home. Here’s a few to consider:

1. Propane

Many people living in rural areas already heat with propane. Unfortunately, their forced-air propane heater won’t work any better without electricity than anyone else’s does. However, there also are ceramic heaters, commonly referred to as “catalytic heaters,” that can be tied into the home’s propane. These allow you to burn the propane for heat without having any need for electricity. They are extremely safe for use indoors.

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These catalytic heaters also are available for connection to a portable propane tank, such as the type used for a barbecue grill. I actually heated a motorhome through a couple of winters with these, as they were much more efficient than the furnace that the motorhome was equipped with.

2. Kerosene

heat your home

Kerosene heaters provide a considerable amount of heat, without needing electricity. I used to heat my office with a kerosene heater, back when my office was an uninsulated attic in upstate New York. If you live in a part of the country where people use kerosene for heating, then the price is quite reasonable. But if not, avoid this one, as buying kerosene at the paint store is just too expensive.

3. Passive solar

Anyone who builds a home without giving it at least some passive solar capability is missing out on a great opportunity for free heat. Even if passive solar can’t heat your home, you will still save money on heating costs. Passive solar is reliable, cheap and plentiful, especially if your home is designed for it.

If your home isn’t designed for passive solar heating, you can still take advantage of it. Open the curtains on all your south-facing windows during the day and put something dark colored on the floor to absorb the sunlight and convert it to heat. While not a perfect solution, it will help.

The big problem for most people is having a thermal mass. This is a mass of rock or concrete that becomes warmed by the sunlight striking its surface. The surface, which must be dark, is called the absorber because it absorbs light and converts it to heat. If your home has concrete floors and you cover them with dark-colored floor covering, then you’ve got a basic passive solar system, even if the concrete isn’t thick enough to absorb much heat.

4. Solar convection

Another way you can take advantage of solar energy is to build a solar convection heater to heat your home. The easiest and cheapest way to make one of these is to cut the tops and bottoms out of a bunch of aluminum soda or beer cans. Glue them together, forming tubes out of the cans that are the height of your windows and leave an opening at the top and bottom. Connect several of these together, side to side, to fill your window opening and paint the whole thing black.

Since warm air rises and cool air drops, the cooler air at the bottom of the window will enter into the bottom of the solar convection heater and exit out the top, warming as it passes through.

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5. Coal

There are still many homes in the northeast which have coal bins and coal chutes into the basements, even though they are no longer heated with coal furnaces. Coal burns hotter than charcoal and will burn a long time. Essentially, coal is petroleum-filled porous rock. So what is burning is the petroleum, leaving behind the rock, which is referred to as coke. The biggest problem with burning coal is keeping it lit. It needs a lot of oxygen to burn, so you’ll have to have good airflow to the fire. It burns slowly, making it perfect to heat your home, but does produce a lot of soot.

In order to use coal, you’re going to have to use it in a fireplace or a wood-burning stove that is lined with fire brick. Please note that this is only an emergency measure, as the coal will damage the fireplace or wood-burning stove. A coal insert in the fireplace is better and will allow the coal to burn more efficiently. Don’t use coal in a metal, wood-burning stove without fire brick since it can get hot enough to soften the metal, distorting it. You absolutely have to have some ventilation, or your home will fill with the coal smoke.

6. Animal dung

Dried animal dung has been used by a variety of cultures throughout history for heating and cooking. While not anyone’s favorite, it works well. If you have livestock, you have a regular source of this heating fuel. Just allow them to dry naturally in the field and collect them. Surprisingly, dried animal dung burns without stinking up your home.

7. Burning flammable fuels

Gasoline, diesel, oil and other liquid fuels can be burned for heat if you are careful. The problem is controlling the burn rate. This is fairly easily accomplished by pouring the fuel into a sand-filled container, such as a number 10 can. The sand will act as a wick, controlling the burn rate.

There are also oil heaters that can be used to heat your home. Some of the simpler ones control the burn rate by dipping the oil from a tank into the burner. The Army used to use heaters of this sort, with gasoline, to provide hot water for field kitchens. So you might be able to find one of those heaters at your local army surplus store.

The big problem with this is that you’ll go through a lot of fuel quickly, so this should be considered only if no other option exists. Ventilation is essential.

8. Compost

The natural act of composting produces quite a bit of heat as the millions of bacteria eat the organic material, breaking it down into its basic elements. You can tap into this heat source by burying pipes in your compost pile. Those pipes can carry water to be heated or you can push air through them to heat your hpme. As long as the compost pile has a continuous source of organic material and is kept moist, it will continue to produce heat.

What tips would you add to this list? Share your advice in the section below:

The post 8 Foolproof Ways To Heat Your Home When The Power’s Out appeared first on Longer Life Plan.

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Livestock

Winter usually means the end of the growing season, shorter daylight hours, and possibly bitter cold temperatures.

That means your livestock will need to be handled very differently. The preparation leading up to winter will determine how well your livestock come through the winter months.

Preparation is Important

Following are some tips to prepare your livestock and homestead for the cold months ahead.

First, make sure your animals are in the best condition possible going into the winter months. Nothing takes more of a toll on livestock than to enter into the winter in poor condition.

Fall is a time to rid your livestock of internal and external parasites. That will help them gain and maintain their weight during a time when temperatures are lower and fresh green growth is not available. In cold climates, an enormous amount of calories are used simply to maintain body heat.

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Livestock Need Sufficient Shelter

The next area to look at is your livestock shelter arrangements for the winter. The three winter rules are:

• Keep them dry.
• Keep them free of drafts and wind.
• Provide housing large enough to accommodate all the stock.

Not providing enough space for your livestock can mean injuries from crowding or more submissive animals being forced out in the cold.

Don’t confuse “free of drafts and wind” with ventilation. Any building structure needs to have adequate ventilation to keep air quality acceptable for the animals and avoid moisture problems.

Check buildings for loose or missing roofing, and repair any leaks. Keeping animals dry will go a long way toward keeping them healthy and comfortable.

The best way to cut down on wind chill is to make certain barn openings are on the downwind side of the structure. Know your prevailing winds, and position openings to be the least affected by the wind.

Livestock

Plenty of Clean Bedding

A common mistake is not providing enough bedding material for animals in the winter. It makes no sense to spare bedding while simultaneously feeding more feeds to keep the stock warm and maintain condition. If they are young and growing, it’s even more important.

An easy way to provide solar heat to your livestock housing is by adding some clear panels to the roof. If you have metal roofing, this is accomplished by removing the screws holding on the metal and replacing it with clear sheets of roofing material. This will add extra light and heat during the day that your stock will enjoy.

Fresh Clean Water

The time to check water systems is before the temperatures drop below freezing. Make sure everything is in proper working order and insulate or add heat tape where needed.

Livestock need access to clean water at all times. If they are rushing to get a drink when you break the ice on your water troughs, it’s a sure sign that they aren’t getting enough to drink. Water is the body’s temperature regulation system. Dehydrated stock have a hard time maintaining body heat.

Cold or wet animals eat more feed, have lower immunity, and lose condition during winter months. This can be avoided by making certain they have dry, draft-free housing with plenty of room and bedding for everyone.

Winter can be a trying time for livestock, but following these guidelines will help with creature comfort, and you’ll sleep better at night as the cold winter wind blows outside knowing your livestock are dry and warm.

What advice would you add on keeping livestock warm during the winter? Share your advice in the section below:

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Taking inventory gives me the chance to see what I actually have. Yet, it also gives me the chance to check the condition of everything in my prepping stockpile as well.

Many people have special things they do at the beginning of the year. For me, that means taking inventory in more ways than one. That’s different than most ideas about the New Year, which are more likely to be about New Year’s Resolutions than anything else. I gave up on those back in my teen years, as I found that like many people I never kept those resolutions. So, while I have goals for my life, they aren’t in the form of New Year’s Resolutions.

But I find the beginning of the year a good time for many other things in life. The chief concern amongst them is taking stock of what has happened in the last year. I figure if I can manage to go forward at least a little bit each year, then I’m at least going in the right direction. I may not be going as fast as I want, but at least I’m not going backward.

Reviewing my year isn’t the only thing I do at the beginning of the year. I also try to plan out my goals for that year. I’m talking about things like, “I’m going to build a chicken coop and start raising chickens this year.” I don’t always get all my goals done, but if I don’t have them, I won’t get anything done.

Managing Your Prepping Stockpile: A Good Time To Keep Track

But there’s one other important thing I try to make sure I do every January. As part of taking stock in where I am, I take an inventory of my preps. Sadly, something seems to happen to my inventory sheets during the year which throws them off. I either have some really big mice around, or I’ve got family members who eat the food that’s supposed to be part of our prepping stockpile without notifying anyone of what they’ve done. Considering I have three grown children who all cook, that’s an easy problem to have.

Taking inventory gives me the chance to see what I actually have. Yet, it also gives me the chance to check the condition of everything in my stockpile as well. I’ve found through the years that not everything manages to stay good in storage. Even things that I expect to stay good, like canned goods, don’t always keep well.

By and large, canned goods will stay good for twenty years or more. I’ve read of cases where they opened and tested canned goods that were even 60, 80, or 100 years old. While they might have been slightly discolored and some of the nutrients may have oxidized, those canned goods were still perfectly edible. So, with that being the case, how can I have canned goods that go bad?

Here’s the thing: for canning to last that long, it requires that everything go perfectly in the canning process. If one thing goes wrong, it’s toast (actually, it’s a mess, but who’s being picky?). For example, if the coating on the inside of the can gets scratched, then the acid in some foods can attack the metal can, eventually causing a hole. This is why we’re always supposed to check the can before opening it.

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Solving Those Pesky Problems That Hamper Your Prepping Stockpile

We all go through a lot of effort to pack our food stocks and other supplies in such a way as to guarantee that they will last a long time without spoiling or becoming damaged. Even so, we must recognize the reality that our packaging efforts may not be perfect. I mitigate that problem through my annual inspection of everything I have stockpiled. On the whole, I look for anything that might be damaged or even suspect.

Anything that you find which is suspect you should remove from your prepping stockpile immediately. However, that doesn’t necessarily mean that you should throw it out completely. It may very well still be good, in which case you’ll find that it is when you open it. If it is still good, you can use it or repackage it and return it to your stockpile.

Nevertheless, if it isn’t good, then you need to add that item to your shopping list as something that you have to replace. As a result, you can keep your stockpile from running down by removing items and then replacing them appropriately. Keep aware of things like this, as I’ve seen many people remove things from their stockpile and forget to replace them. After a while, they forget they had removed it and expect it to still be there. But when they need that item, they are in for an unpleasant surprise.

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Rotate Supplies To Help Your Prepping Stockpile Stay Full

The other thing you can do to help eliminate this problem is to rotate your stock. This means combining your supplies for everyday use with your prepping stockpile. It helps to date the items with the day that you bought them. Then, you use the oldest container of the item you have and replace it with a new one on your next grocery trip.

One of the biggest problems people have with rotating stock is that they tend to diminish the amount of food they have on hand over time. Items that they use they don’t necessarily replace. There are two strategies you can employ which will help eliminate this problem.

Tip #1: Use A Pre-Printed List

The first is to keep a shopping list in your pantry with a pen hanging right by it. Next, when you take something out of the pantry, you mark it down right then. I like using a pre-printed list for this which covers all the common items that we use. A few blank lines allow me to add additional items that aren’t on the pre-printed list.

Tip #2: Designate Normal Stocking Levels 

The second useful trick is to create a pre-determined stocking level for each item. Let’s say that you keep 24 cans of corn on hand as part of your food stockpile. Furthermore, you also have a particular place in your pantry where you store them. When it comes time to go to the store, all you have to do is count how many you have on hand. Consequently, you’ll know how many more you need to buy in order to reach your normal stocking level.

To take this idea a step further, you could actually outline the area where you stock those cans of corn in. That would make it easier to see how many are missing, rather than having to count them. I personally like doing it this way, because it saves me time and helps ensure that I will do it.

You may also enjoy reading an additional Off The Grid News article: Top 8 Most Overlooked Survival Items To Stockpile

Do you have any other tips or suggestions on how to effectively maintain a prepping stockpile? Let us know in the comments below.

The post Getting Your Prepping Stockpile Ready For When You Need It Most appeared first on Longer Life Plan.

Chicks

There’s nothing that hints of spring quite like newly hatched chicks. If you haven’t ordered yet, now is the time to do so, either through a nearby breeder, the local feed store or a mail order hatchery. You’ll also want to have your brooder set up so you’re all ready to go when that peeping box of precious fuzz arrives.

Choosing the Perfect Chicken Breed

There are so many different breeds of chickens to choose from that it can be quite intimidating to get started. Determine what you’re most interested in: egg laying, meat producing, broodiness (setting and hatching eggs), or ability to forage. Some breeds offer a nice balance of all of these characteristics and seem to suit homesteaders quite nicely. Over time you may develop a personal favorite, but look into trying Buff Orpingtons, Wyandottes, Barred and Plymouth Rocks, Delawares, Rhode Island Reds, New Hamshires, Sex-links, and Old English Game birds. The temperaments differ somewhat from breed to breed, some having more tenacity or flightiness, some more docile and calm. Overall, these breeds produce a mixture of eggs and meat quite admirably. If you want to brood multiple hatches of eggs a year, consider adding a Silkie to your flock. These bantams (smaller sized than average chickens) are extremely broody in nature. In fact, it’s not just the hens; Silkie roosters have been known to occasionally “go broody.” With having a dedicated brooder, this will free your other hens up to lay eggs continually.

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Mix it up

Consider ordering several different breeds at the same time. If you keep any flock for an extended period of time and hatch out your own chicks, inbreeding occurs and the quality of your chickens can decrease with each new generation. If you order several different breeds, the gene pull is larger and allows for higher quality birds to be maintained over time. Another way to handle this is to periodically add a new rooster to your flock (though, it goes without saying that you’ll need to remove the older one first).

Chicks

When ordering your chicks, some hatcheries allow you to pick out the sex of your chicks. Unless you choose a sex-linked breed, determining the sex of baby chicks is difficult. Sexing practices are becoming more sophisticated and more reliable than in the past, but don’t be surprised if you end up with a rooster or two in your batch of pullets. It happens.

Getting the Brooder Ready

With breeds chosen and the arrival of your chicks days away, it’s time to set up your brooder. You can construct a brooder from any number of supplies or order a ready-made one. Shipping crates, large and sturdy cardboard boxes, plastic storage bins, plywood box constructions and more all work admirably as brooders. Basically you need an area to contain your chicks (and keep out predators or pets) in a warm area with food and water available. There are a variety of ideas and plans on the Internet for constructing your own chicken brooder, so do a quick search and find something that will work best for your situation.

Chicken brooders can be set up in chicken houses and barns (as long as no other animals, including other chickens, can get to them and the temperature can be maintained) or in your home. My family spent many springs with our brooder tucked away in the corner of our kitchen. The chicks’ cheerful little peeps kept us company until we moved them outside once they were old enough.

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Once you have your brooder constructed, sprinkle the floor with pine shavings. Pine sawdust is okay after the first week. Before that the chicks may try to eat it. Never use cedar shavings as these are poisonous and will kill if ingested. Hang your heat lamp and place a thermometer on the floor of the brooder where the chicks will be. The temperature should hover close to 91.4 degrees Fahrenheit. Adjust the height of the heat lamp or change the bulb until you reach this temperature. You’ll want to ensure also that the brooder is large enough so the chicks can get out from under the heat lamp if they become overheated. In the spring, outdoor temperatures can fluctuate quite a bit, so check your brooder often. If the chicks are huddled densely together under the heat lamp, they are probably too cold. If they’re scattered out to the far reaches of the brooder, they’re probably too hot. Every couple days, decrease the heat in the brooder by lifting the heat lamp up.

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Provide chick feed in a shallow dish and water in a chick waterer. If your waterer is fairly large, you’ll probably want to place stones into the water trough so that the chicks can’t fall in and drown themselves. You can start your chicks off with sugar water although it isn’t always necessary. Place about one teaspoon in a quart to a gallon of water. Extended use of sugar water can lead to pasty butt in chicks, so use it only in the beginning few hours or if a chick gets chilled or stressed at some point.

When the Chicks Arrive

When your chicks arrive, take them to your brooder. The heat lamp should have already been on, so you can place them in their new, warm home right away. Take each chick and check them over briefly for any travel injuries and pasty butt. Dip their beaks into the water and place them next to the chick feed, or even standing in the dish. Chicks learn quickly, but they don’t know what is food and water at first. Once you’ve checked all the chicks over and introduced them to their food and water, let them rest. They’ve had a stressful journey, but they should perk up fairly quickly.

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Maintenance

You’ll want to check your brooder frequently the first couple days to ensure everyone is okay and the temperature is comfortable for the chicks. It isn’t uncommon for a chick or two to be lost if they’re shipped through the mail. Discard of these right away and keep an eye on the rest of your chicks. Contact the seller or hatchery if you start losing more chicks. But chances are, you won’t have any problems and you’ll be able to enjoy your chicks’ contented peeping noises emanating from their brooder. In the days and weeks ahead, little wing feathers will appear and the roosters’ combs will start to flesh out. Soon your little brood will be ready for their first introduction to the great outdoors!

If you have any other tips, please share them in the comments below! 

The post Spring Guide To Raising Healthy Chicks appeared first on Longer Life Plan.

Spring Storms are upon us.

The spring storm season is here, and for thousands of people in the United States, that means time to start preparing the homestead. It is important to becoming mentally aware of how to react should you find yourself in the midst of a natural disaster.

Summer and fall seasons bring a number of different types of storms, ranging from hurricanes and tornadoes to floods and wildfires. Being aware of the types of disasters your area is most prone to is important when preparing your home, and understanding your surroundings is key to being prepared. Ask yourself if you live in a mudslide or easily flooded area, and know what you and your family will do in case of an emergency. While forest fires can spread to nearly every region as quickly as the winds change, certain places know that they are more vulnerable to tornadoes, floods or hurricanes. Early preparation for your family and homestead is important when you only have a moment’s notice, so here are some tips to keep you as safe and secure as possible when natural disasters strike.

Equipment

While most people living the homestead lifestyle are probably already aware of the need for backup power, making sure that you have everything you need is another story. If you have solar generators as a backup, do you know how to use them in a power outage? If you use gas generators, do you have enough gas stockpiled? Combustibles should always be stored in appropriate containers and locked away from your home and children. Also, ensure you know where your fire extinguishers are and check yearly to see if they are filled and working properly. Extra batteries, flashlights, rope, duct tape, a crowbar, and a charged phone should always be part of your evacuation kits as well.

Spring Storm Home Readiness

Since there are so many different types of natural disasters, being prepared for anything can be a difficult task. It is wise to consider that when one disaster strikes, other consequences can follow. For this reason, start from the bottom and work up to ensure that every part of your home is covered. Pick things off of the floor in your basement or flood-prone areas, and elevate machinery such as washers and dryers onto a platform that is high enough to escape rising water levels. In the main part of your house, evaluate heavy and loosely secured items on the walls and ceilings, in case there is flying debris. Also, be sure to separate any chemicals that may mix together and cause toxic fumes in the event of earthquakes or storms.

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Secure your roof by checking yearly for loose shingles, and consider purchasing metal connectors to attach trusses and beams that will prevent roof lift during high winds. Hurricane clips, straps and ties can be purchased at your local hardware store to connect studs from your home to your roof, securing the structural integrity as best as is possible. Check outside your home for any low-hanging branches or trees that appear ready to die or fall over. In the case of flooding, the ground becomes soft, and large trees will easily uproot and fall, causing major damage to your property. If a tree is leaning toward your home, it is a good idea to consider having it removed. Also, bring in or secure any patio furniture, toys or loose items that are outside to keep them from blowing around and flying into your home.

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Make sure everyone in your family is aware of where the shut-off is for your utilities, such as power, gas and water, and also that each individual understands how to manually work the valves and switches. Keeping fresh, potable water stored in a safe and accessible location on your property is also something to consider in case of pump and electrical failure. If you haven’t built a shelter, take some time to look around your home and decide where the most structurally secure walls and roof beams exist, and make sure that this area is clear of any obstacles or potentially hazardous items that may shift during a natural disaster. If you have fair warning of impending disaster, always cover your windows with boards or storm shutters to keep flying objects from coming into your home.

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Kits/Personal Item Bags

During spring storm season, whether it be wildfires or tornadoes, keeping a bag of personal items and family treasures, such as priceless pictures and heirlooms, in a secure location that is easily accessible to move quickly will save the devastation of losing those belongings should anything happen to your home. (A modern alternative: Scan them and store them in the “cloud.”) A bag with emergency clothing and a first-aid kit should be prepared to grab and dash out of the house as well. Make sure to keep important information like your insurance policies and important phone numbers written down and not just saved in your phone, and keep time and date stamped pictures of your valuables for insurance purposes. Know your evacuation routes and keep an update on where local emergency shelters are in your area.

It is also a good idea to keep emergency items in your car for a quick exit, such as a first-aid kit, jumper cables, a spare tire, blankets, canned items, and clothes. In a camping kit, make sure to have pots and pans, utensils, matches or lighters, aluminum foil, and a can opener for food. Emergency camping blankets that shield from high heat and freezing temperatures can also be a lifesaver if you are caught outdoors, in your car, or in a situation where help may be delayed for an extended period of time. Store these items in a bag in your shelter, and make sure that you have easy access to them should you need to evacuate to your car quickly.

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Natural disasters can strike in a moment’s notice, so constantly being prepared and keeping your family informed of proper evacuation and safety procedures is the number one step to staying alive. Get underground or to a secure location in the event of tornadoes, evacuate flood-prone areas during hurricanes, never drive your car through flood water, and when water levels rise, always seek high, secure ground that isn’t prone to landslides.

Remember that winds shift quickly during fires, and water levels can rise in a moment’s notice during floods, so don’t wait until the last minute to decide what is best for your family. Homes can be repaired, but your family cannot be replaced. Always be aware of your surroundings and check for downed power lines, sinkholes, open sewage lines, or other potentially hazardous situations before approaching disaster areas. Being prepared for the impending storm season is the best way to keep yourself and your family safe and protected the whole year.

For more information and complete kit checklists, visit www.ready.gov/natural-disasters

What would you add to this list? Share your suggestions in the comments section below:

The post Critical Preps For Spring Storms – When Mother Nature Strikes appeared first on Longer Life Plan.

Keeping warm during a winter power outage can be difficult.

The recent polar vortex hit Texas hard. While the entire country suffered with unexpectedly cold temperatures which lasted for days; no other state had as many people without power, without water and dying from the cold weather.

But why should this be so?

First, no other state in the 48 continuous states reaches as far south as Texas does, except Florida. But Florida was left out of the fun and games that the rest of the country was facing. Had the polar vortex and freezing rain reached them, like it did Texas, it’s possible they would have suffered a similar fate. However, the one big difference is that Florida doesn’t have its own power grid.

Texas just isn’t prepared for such cold weather; and the combination of cold weather with freezing rain made it worse. Don’t believe those who say that Texas has a freeze like that every decade; that’s bending the facts considerably. Texas has freezes, but they’re overnight things, not something lasting four days. Nor do they usually come with freezing rain.

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So water pipes aren’t buried as deep in Texas, and home HVAC systems don’t have as much heating capacity. It’s not uncommon for homes to get chilly on the two or three nights of freezing weather that actually hits south Texas. Most people just put up with it, not knowing what else to do.

The standard prepper solution is to install a wood-burning stove in the home for use as an alternative heating method. That’s a good solution for those who own their homes. But people who are renting a house or apartment aren’t able to do that one.

Those who aren’t preppers face the problem of trying to keep their home warm, without having prepared for it. Some turn to using their stove, oven, or barbecue grille for this. That’s dangerous, because of the risk of carbon monoxide buildup in the home. Fireplaces and wood-burning stoves don’t create this sort of buildup, even though they produce carbon monoxide, because of the chimney. Whatever carbon monoxide is produced, goes up the chimney and is vented outside the home.

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So, what can someone do for heat, while maintaining a safe environment in their home?

Before answering that question, we need to define something. That is, what is survival heating? If you’re thinking that you need to have your home at 75°F to survive, then good luck. The so-called “comfort zone” is just that—comfort. But comfort is unnecessary for survival. All that’s needed is enough heat to help keep your core body temperature where it should be; anything else is actually a luxury.

I’ve spent a lot of time in Mexico, where few homes have any sort of heat at all. Those people aren’t accustomed to the cold, yet they make it through every winter. Up near the border which connects to south Texas, they have freezing temperatures every time south Texas does, yet they survive without central heating or a fireplace.

Warm Clothes and Blankets

The most basic way of keeping warm is to wrap yourself in several layers of warm clothes. While it may not be all that comfortable to eat dinner at the table with a winter coat and hat on, it’s really not a problem. We’re just so used to the idea of having a warm home, that we expect our home to keep us warm, rather than utilizing our body heat.

During the freeze, I wore heavy knit sweaters every day. That may not seem all that unusual to some people, but I rarely wear them, unless I’m going to be out in the cold. I just get hot too easily and I don’t want to be perspiring all over clothes that are hard to launder. But I was sure glad I had those sweaters available to me that week.

If you’re going to be sitting on the sofa, watching TV, what’s wrong with covering yourself with a blanket? We all do that at night to keep warm, so there really shouldn’t be a problem doing so during the day. Just about the same could be said about wearing a hat… which is the fastest way to warm yourself up. Make use of your body heat, rather than complaining that it’s cold.

Propane Burners

One of the safest heaters any of us can use in the home is a propane one. I normally don’t recommend propane heaters for survival situations; but that’s because of the problem coming up with enough fuel. However, that’s a non-issue in a short-term survival situation. Just make sure you’ve got an extra tank or two of propane on hand.

If you buy a propane heater, make sure that it’s rated for indoor use, not outdoor use. There is a difference in how they are made and the outdoor ones are not safe for the home.

Soapstone

In olden times people heated soapstones in the coals of the fire, to have portable heat. That could then be carried in a cloth carrier for providing heat in their wagon or set under the family pew in church. With their laps covered by a blanket, the radiated heat would help keep them warm.

Soapstone was used because… of all types of stone available for this purpose… soapstone and marble have the best thermal conductivity. Therefore, they absorb heat well, holding more than some other types of stone might. Then, when it’s time to use that heat, they radiate it out well. Metals, on the other hand, may absorb heat well, but they radiate transferred heat out too fast to be used as an effective heater.

The idea here would be to use the barbecue grille outside to heat up the stone, then bring it indoors to take advantage of that heat. At the same time, the stone could be replaced with another, so the cycle could continue.

But what if you don’t have a soapstone? Then use some other rock. While soapstone and marble are the best possible choices, other types of stone will work too; they just won’t work as well. That’s okay; whatever heat they produce is more than you have without the stone.

Terra Cotta Pot Heater

Finally, people have been using terra cotta flowerpots as a makeshift heater. The pot is placed upside-down over a can of the fuel that is used for chafing dishes. That’s safe to use indoors, because they don’t produce that much carbon monoxide.

The flowerpot is an essential part of this, because it keeps the heat from just rising to the ceiling. Rather, the heat warms the pot which then radiates the heat outwards, where it will do some good. The trick here is that the pot needs to be propped up in a way so that air can come in under the rim and then exist out the hole in the bottom (or top, since it’s upside down), of the pot.

If you have any other useful heating tips, please share them in the comments below. 

The post Keeping Warm “Off-Grid” Without A Wood-Burning Stove appeared first on Longer Life Plan.

Dandelions aren’t just weeds

In today’s world, people want everything to be neat, tidy and uniform – including their yards. The grass, we’re told, should be one smooth, green carpet.

But that’s easier said than done! Everyone knows that if you don’t pull them or spray them, “weeds” such as dandelions will be the first thing to pop up and ruin that lawn.

Perhaps the real problem here isn’t dandelions, but our unnatural expectations of what things “should” look like, as well as what constitutes a “weed.”

My grandmother loved picking dandelions out in the fields behind her home. She would collect them in her apron or a bucket and proceed to make the most amazing things.

Of course, there is no denying that dandelions can have a bitter aftertaste, especially if you aren’t accustomed to them, but given time and a few tweaks, they can be delicious.

When you consider that these “weeds” are chock full of vitamins, such as A, B, C and D, as well as minerals, including potassium, iron and zinc, it’s no wonder that our ancestors didn’t need multivitamins!

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Here’s how our grandmothers used them:

1. Dandelions as food

Think of dandelions as you would other leafy greens, like lettuce or spinach. This means you can use them in:

• Salads (fresh from the yard, but washed).
• Soups or casseroles (fresh or dried).
• Green juices
• Stir fry (chopped up).

2. Dandelion tea

Yes, you can buy dandelion tea in almost every health food store, but why not learn how to make your own? My grandmother used both the greens and the root. Simply boil a little more than a cup of water, add about a tablespoon of dried leaves and/or root, and cover and allow to simmer for three or so minutes. Strain and add some honey. Speaking of honey……….

3. Dandelion honey

This isn’t actually a honey; this is more of a syrup. On occasion, when honey ran low, my grandmother would make this.

Start off by gathering a bunch (perhaps four cups) of dandelions, roots and all. Wash and place in a pot of boiling water. Allow to boil for about 3 minutes; cover, and turn off the fire. Allow to soak overnight. Strain out the dandelions, and put back on the stove under a very low flame. Add about a cup of sugar and the juice of one lemon. Leave the pot uncovered and simmer slowly for about 30 minutes or until it reaches a syrup-like consistency. Store in a glass jar and use like you would honey. This tastes so good, you won’t believe it! Try it on pancakes for a really different taste!

4. Dandelion wine

Dandelions are actually delicious

Everyone’s favorite, right?  If you really want to taste some homemade goodness, you simply must try dandelion wine. For this recipe, you will only need fresh flowers, no roots or leaves. Be sure to pull the green little stem at the bottom of the flower. All you want are the yellow petals (nothing green or the wine is very bitter)! There are dozens of recipes online, including this one.

5. Medicinal uses

These little yellow flowering plants have a wide variety of medicinal uses:

• Lower blood pressure.
• Calm an upset stomach.
• As a mild laxative.
• Remove warts.

Our ancestors used dandelions for many years before they had access to doctors or pharmaceuticals. If the unthinkable should happen, a little bit of knowledge about this important little plant will go a long way.

Keep in mind that dandelions are a natural diuretic, so if you are already taking diuretics or any other prescription medicines, you should check with your doctor or pharmacist.

Dandelions greens are at their most tender and delicious when you pick them before they start to flower. If they flower before you pull them, don’t worry! They will just need to be boiled or steamed a bit longer to make them softer. Or, you can still dry the leaves, flowers, and roots for later use.

And one last reminder: If you collect dandelions in the wild, or from a neighbor’s yard, be sure you aren’t collecting plants that have been sprayed with pesticides or where systemic pesticides have been applied.

How do you use dandelions? Share your tips in the section below:

The post 5 Forgotten Things Grandma Did With Dandelions appeared first on Longer Life Plan.